Day 30 - Demre to Alakilise

Today is the first day of our mountain crossing.  A 1800 metre climb, and no shops, cafes, or hotels for three days.  We set off from Demre with a full load of water and an additional 4kg of food in our packs.  There is a steep climb out of Demre on an ancient pilgrims road.  This area was part of the Byzantine empire until the Turks conquered it in the 11th century.

Fiona having a penitential moment on the pilgrims road.

We climb past the last village, and onto forested hillsides, periodically interrupted by small areas of flat pasture occupied by shepherd's huts.  At 6pm we reach the mountain valley of Alakilise, site of a 9th  century Christian religious centre.  We pitch our tent beside the ruins of the church, and Fiona retrieves some water from a goat watering trough.  We really have reached new lows.  Two German walkers who are camped nearby, assure us that a local shepard has assured them that the water is safe to drink; and we don't have any other options.  The water gets multiple aquatabs and a good boil. 

Ruins of 9th century church at Alakilise.  An early biography of Saint Nicolas, subsequently known as Father Christmas, records that he visited this church; although I saw no evidence of a surviving chimney. 

Camp Ring My Bell

At night a mountain mist rolls in, and we drift off to sleep to the barks of the shepard's dogs echoing around the valley.  These massive beasts would intimidate the hound of the Baskervilles.  

Today's tortoise count : 2