Wednesday, 20 May 2015

Day 12 - Gelemis to Yali Burun

Spent the first half of the day looking at the ruins of Patara; the major seaport of the Lycian Kingdom, and also significant for the Greeks, Romans and Byzantines. Lots to see.  In fact, we run out of time and decide to add Patara to the "must return to one day" list.



Then approximately four hours walk onto our next campsite.  I'm trying to adhere to the official Lycian Way route.  This takes me out of the ruins of Patara, across a farmer's field, and straight up a hill.  Fiona had earlier decided to leave her pack at the pension, so she goes back to retrieve it then takes a far more practical route along some nice roads.

My "straight up a hill" route immediately leads me into a forest of thorn bushes.  At first I think that I must have the navigation wrong; but "no", I can see the red and white trail markers heading into the thorns, and the Lycian Way iPhone app, which I'm carrying, says that I'm on the right track.  I try to brute force it.  Within 10m I've doubled the already considerable number of thorn scars and welts that I'm carrying.  I stop and get out my cold/wet weather clothing, put it all on, and try to brute force it again.  I make it another 10m into the thorn forest and have to give up.  I still have another 180m of thorns to go, I'm already wearing all of my clothing (in 30 degree heat), and I'm a mass of scars.  I can't see how anyone could complete this stretch of the Lycian without a machete or body armour.  I retrace my steps, sidle 150m around the hill, find another path heading up, follow that, and rejoin the Lycian Way 300m above.  This is the first stretch in which I haven't been able to follow the official Lycian Way route exactly.  The next day I rediscovered the notes that I made when we went to visit the Cultural Routes Society before starting the walk, and see that they had advised us not to attempt this section.  DOH!

First metre of the Lycian Way Thorn Challenge; only 199m to go.

Fiona and I meet on top of the hill, and continue on, through more idyllic scenary, before setting up camp at 6pm in a forest clearing beside an olive grove, about 2km short of Yali Burun.  Bread and cup-a-soup for dinner.

Camp Staying Alive 

Today's tortoise count : 0




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